Walking in The Alpujarra

Walking in The Alpujarra

The Alpujarra is the area that is the southern slopes of Spain’s Sierra Nevada mountains. Having walked all over Europe and in North Africa, I can honestly say that the walking here is unsurpassed. This is hill walking terrain rather than mountain walking of the high Sierra Nevada. It is characterized by steep sided valleys, terraces and pretty white washed villages.

Walking in The TaHa

 Although many of these pretty white washed villages provide a good base to stay, Capileira is undoubtedly the best place to base yourself. There are several good day walks to be had straight from the village and other walks could be had by either driving out or by catching the bus.

Busquistar, a village in The TaHa

Sierra Nevada Guides have some walks already written up on their website and run a programme of guided walks in the spring (April, May and early June). If you are thinking of a walking holiday for your walking club, then Mountain House Holidays are able to organize a package for you. A full board, fully guided week from £695.

It’s hard to pick out a favorite walk as there are so many to choose from, and according to season when flowers are out. Undoubtedly walking in the Rio Poqueira from Capileira or in the Taha de Pitres provide the best walking. It is also possible to venture up into the Sierra Nevada without having to tackle the mountains. Hoya del Portillo above Capileira provides a good starting point. Only half an hour above Hoya brings us to the viewpoint of Puerto Molino where the higher summits can clearly be seen, especially Mulhacen (the highest mountain in mainland Spain) and Veleta the 2^nd highest in the Sierra Nevada.

Walking in the Alpujarra can get too hot in July and August.  Good times are March to June and September to November.  That said, if the sun is out, it is possible to walk in T shirts throughout the winter!

T Shirts in winter!

Capileira

If you are restricted to the height of summer, there are several walks to be had in the high mountains where it is cool at altitude. It is possible to catch the National Park bus from Capileira to Mirador Trevelez 2700m asl. You can expect the tempreture at 3000m to be around 15 to 20 degrees during the afternoon in July if it is not windy. With wind chill you might be looking to wear a fleece or jacket.

From Mirador Trevelez, the old road leads to The Caldera at just over 3000m. From here a path leads down the Rio Mulhacen and you can make a circuit via the Refugio Poqueira (food, drinks and toilets) before returning to the bus at Mirador Trevelez.

Maps and English guidebooks are available locally, but to help with your planning, they can be obtained in advance from Stanfords. The Editorial Alpina map / guide to the Sierra Nevada and Alpujarra is a good start. Spanish maps are usually flimsy so consider getting your map laminated before you go.

Accommodation is plentiful. Pensions, Hotels and self catering are all available. If you are planning to visit in the hotter months (mid June through until the end of September, look for somewhere with a pool or plunge pool.  It’s great to cool off after a good walk!

Mountain House Holidays for a full board, fully guided weeks holiday from £695.

Sierra Nevada Guides

Walks to Download

Programme of guided walks – Spring

Programme of guided walks - Summer

Mountain House Holidays and Sierra Nevada Guides are the only qualified British guides (International Mountain Leaders) based in the Alpujarra / Sierra Nevada.

Walking in The Alpujarra

Good Walking Straight From The Door!

Being enthusiastic hill walkers ourselves we have always been keen to walk straight out from Finca Montaña rather than getting in the car and driving to get to the start of a walk.  Sure, there are great walks elsewhere in the Alpujarra but here at Finca Montaña there are our own great circuits.

The latest walk!

The problem with planning a route and exploring around here is the fact that although a path or track might be shown on the map, it either may not exist or be over private land and you have no way of knowing until you arrive at a chain across the track half way around your walk.

Earlier this week we pieced together another amazing circuit from the house.  Even after living here for 10 years, it’s such a joy for us to discover something new. Passing mountain farmsteads like our own and seeing what’s growing, old mines, acequia’s, abandoned farms and terraces and never seeing another sole except for a farmer pruning some almond trees. The spectacular views, geology, and wildlife are a wonder too. On this latest circuit we saw a juvenile Golden Eagle, Iberian Ibex and Kestrels.

In addition to a host of shorter walks, we now have 4 superb day walks straight from the front door. All of them circuits of around 10 miles and with 600m to 1000m of ascent. Quite strenuous days but the good thing is there is always a mug of tea or beer / wine to reward yourself with at the end of the walk. There’s nothing like your favourite tipple when you’ve earned it and the views from here are truly stunning.

Evening Views from Finca Montaña

 Finca Montaña is a great, reasonably priced, base for walkers to enjoy the spectacular hill and mountain walking that the Alpujarra and Sierra Nevada have to offer. Walking is possible throughout the year in The Alpujarra though it’s a good idea to miss the heat of August. Even in January and February it is often possible to walk wearing a T shirt. Walking in the High Sierra Nevada is cooler! The best months are June, July, September and October though if you fancy some snowshoeing (possibly combined with some warmer walking in the Alpujarra), February is a good time to visit.

At Finca Montaña you can have a flexible accommodation option, B & B, Half Board or Full Board at reasonable prices. We also offer airport pick ups from either Malaga (2 hours) or Granada (75 minutes).

Mike and Jane the owners of Finca Montaña are both qualified International Mountain Leaders with an extensive knowledge of walking in The Alpujarra and Sierra Nevada. They work together at Sierra Nevada Guides.

Walking in The Alpujarra with Mountain House Holidays

Walking in The Alpujarra with Mountain House Holidays

Mike and Jane bought their Mountain House - Finca Montaña in 2002 and started to explore the Alpujarra and mountains of The Sierra Nevada. As Mountain House Holidays, they started organising walking holidays based from the Alpujarran Spa Town of Lanjaron in 2003.

Enjoying the April Sunshine with a backdrop of snowy mountains!

In the ten years since they started, they believe that they have refined their holidays into a genuine quality product. Most holidays are now based at the stunning Hotel Alcadima which is a holiday experience in itself. “Somedays it’s hard to get our guests out walking as the restful gardens and pool are so appealing!”

Pink Vanilla Orchid above Lanjaron

Walking in the Alpujarra is some of the best hillwalking in the world. Medieval mule tracks; Roman Bridges; paths through terraces cut into the hillsides still being worked; pretty white villages built by the Berber Arabs who colonised the area 600 years ago; and if you time it right stunning spring flowers or almond blossom. It is possible to walk in the Alpujarra all year, though best to avoid the hottest weeks from mid-July and all of August. Winter can be surprisingly hot, walking in T shirts in January and February is not uncommon with 80% of winter days being “blue sky” days. Spring with its amazing flowers is our favourite, April, May and June.

Mike and Jane supported by their friend Martin lead all of the holidays themselves so there is a real connection with your holiday company and genuine local knowledge often lacking with the larger companies who bring staff into the area. Additionally, Mike, Jane and Martin are all qualified International Mountain Leaders which is the qualification required in Spain to take people into the mountains.

In addition to organising holidays for individuals or even large groups, Mike, Jane and Martin have established “Sierra Nevada Guides” who undertake a range of mountain guiding throughout the year.  Sierra Nevada Guides are the only qualified British guides (IML’s) operating in the Sierra Nevada.

Exploring the "White Villages"

The range of holidays and activities provided by Mountain House Holidays includes:  Walking in The Alpujarra;  Walking in The Sierra Nevada; Snowshoeing;  Rock Scrambling;  and Rock Climbing.

For those wanting to experience living in a remote mountain cortio, it is possible to stay with Mike and Jane at Finca Montaña who do B & B and full board packages.

Finca Montaña "The Good Life"

Autumn’s Harvest is gathered at Finca Montaña.

Collecting the almonds

The walnuts, chestnuts and almonds are all now gathered.  It has been a poor year for Almonds in the Alpujarra and Sierra Nevada due to a combination of frosts getting at the blossom and high winds as the nuts were setting.  The grape harvest was poor too.  Probably due a lot of mists at our height (1300m) throughout the summer.  Most peoples grapes around here seemed to suffer the same mildew fate.

We have chestnuts in abundance and have been experimenting with chestnut recipes, though so far the best use for them has either been Chestnuts roasted on the fire or various forms of chestnut stuffing. Delicious!

This year we had to leave Spain in mid-October so didn’t manage to gather all of the grapes in.  As a result we have only been able to make 25 litres of wine this year. Although with wine so cheap in Spain I sometimes wonder if it’s worth the effort of making our own wine…..  Of course it is!  It will be bottled in December and will take pride of place at the dinner table for special events.

The Grape Harvest!

We had bought a new grape press this year to replace our traditional method of treading the grapes (in the washing up bowl).  It’s such good fun harvesting your own grapes and making your own wine.  With a predicted world shortage of wine looming in the next few years I’m starting to plan creating our own vineyard and will be planting next spring.  So if you fancy a working holiday contributing to save the world from a wine shortage combined with some fine walking, book your stay at Finca Montaña.

We’re currently enjoying a few weeks back in the U.K. but come the start of December we’ll be back to start the job of pruning our fruit trees, and turning the land over with our cultivator.

So the big plan for next year is to develop the wine producing alongside taking in guests and leading guided walks.  If you fancy staying at Finca Montaña visit our website.

December, walking in a T shirt!

Finca Montaña is a great, reasonably priced, base for walkers to enjoy the spectacular hill and mountain walking that the Alpujarra and Sierra Nevada have to offer. Walking is possible throughout the year in The Alpujarra though it’s a good idea to miss the heat of August. Even in January and February it is often possible to walk wearing a T shirt. Walking in the High Sierra Nevada is cooler! The best months are June, July, September and October though if you fancy some snowshoeing (possibly combined with some warmer walking in the Alpujarra), February is a good time to visit.

Mike and Jane the owners of Finca Montaña are both qualified International Mountain Leaders with an extensive knowledge of walking in The Alpujarra and Sierra Nevada.

Spring Walks in The Alpujarra and Sierra Nevada

Spring Walks in The Alpujarra and Sierra Nevada

Spring Walking in The Ta Ha Gorge, Alpujarra

Mountain House Holidays, spring walking season of is in full swing at the moment with several groups on “back to back” holidays in Spain's Alpujarra and Sierra Nevada mountains.  The weather in Spain two weeks ago was unseasonably hot which brought the flowers out slightly earlier than usual and making for superb walking holidays which our guests have been enjoying.

Ferreirola with an 'aira" in the foreground

Always a favourite is a walking circuit in an area of the Alpujarra known as the Ta Ha. Starting at the pretty white village of  Fondales the route we follow takes us through Ferreirola and past a “fizzy” spring of naturally occurring carbonated water  before ascending to Busquistar.

On this section of the walk we pass through terraces as well as spectacular crag scenery. One of the features of the Alpujarra region is the "aira" a flat section of land, usually on a promontory where the wheat and cereals were "thrashed."

At Busquistar we descend into the ravine and take a spectacular medieval path which has been hewn out of the steep craggy hillside. The route now follows a road for a short distance before taking a forest track towards the medieval Arab water tank at Aguila.

The final descent down another medieval cut path is surely one of the best and most spectacular paths in the world! In places the path has been hewn out of the rock whilst in parts it is held in place by ancient stone walls that seem to hang off the steep craggy hillside.  And it gets better with a Roman bridge crossing the river at the bottom.

All that remains is the ascent back up to Fondales and a well earned beer at our favourite bar in the village of Mecina.

The Best Path in The World!

Although a strenuous walk due to the two steep ascents, it is a relatively short

(12k) walk.  We always tell clients that it their holiday and there are no prizes for being first! At a leisurely pace we complete the route in 5 to 6 hours. A Ramblers grade of A2.

Mountain House Holidays are led by qualified International Mountain Leaders who know the area and each walk very well.

B & B and Self Catering accommodation in Spain’s Alpujarra and Sierra Nevada

B & B and Self-Catering accommodation in Spain’s Alpujarra and Sierra Nevada

Finca Montaña the home of Mountain House Holidays and Sierra Nevada Guides a great place for a quiet holiday, even better if you enjoy walking or bird watching.

Our remote mountain “cortijo” set in 5 acres of grounds lends itself to the perfect “hide away.”  Fantastic views and good walking straight from the front door.

This is not a location for those wanting to spend their evenings in a bar.

Finca Montaña

Stay with us at Finca Montaña

Finca Montaña is our remote mountain farmhouse 1300m above sea level. It is set in 5 acres of fruit trees. It is a very quirky property though we love it!

It is 12km drive up a dirt track road and normally takes around 35 minutes to reach by car. By path from Lanjaron it is around 1.5 hours in ascent and an hour for descent. After a days walking or climbing it is unlikely that you’ll want to make the effort to go back down the mountain into town for a beer or meal. So if you are keen to partake in the nightlife of Lanjaron, don’t consider staying at Finca Montaña.

Drinks and Nibbles on the Patio

We keep the fridge well stocked with beer and wine which guests can help themselves to and settle up at the end of the stay.

We have 2 bedrooms available in the “new house” a double and a small double. The property can accommodate up to 4 adults and 1 child (top bunk above the double).

There is a shared washroom with shower, w.c. and hand basin and a shared living room / kitchen.

Outside is a patio with views down to the coast and occasionally the mountains of North Africa.

This is a 12 volt house. We generate our own power from a solar panel and wind turbine. The power is stored in batteries but if guests leave the lights on the batteries will run flat! All rooms have lighting and bedside lights, there is an ipod dock and a means of charging mobile telephones (car socket, bring car charger for your phone).

The fridge and freezer like the cooking and water heater all work off gas.

We have springs on the land to collect our own water and we have a septic tank for the drainage.

Costs:

Bed Only             (self catering can use the kitchen)            15 Euroʼs per person per night

Bed and Breakfast            " "            "            "                   20 Euro’s per person per night

Bed, Breakfast and Evening Meal "            "            "          30 Euro’s per person per night

(Includes beer or wine with

the evening meal)

Packed Lunch"            "            "            "            "                5 Euro’s per person per day

Walking

Early Spring in the Taha Valley

We know the area really well and can advise on walking itineraries, providing you with printed route descriptions or take you out on a professionally guided walk.

The Alpujarra has some of the best hill walking to be had anywhere. Old mule tracks and water courses (acequias) link pretty white mountain villages.  At the height of summer when it's too hot in the valleys, our walks migrate upwards into the cool air of the Sierra Nevada mountains, home to Mulhacen the highest mountain in mainland Spain.



Bird Watching and Wildlife

Black Eared Wheatear in the front garden

The Alpujarra and Sierra Nevada are home to a wide variety of plants, birds and animals. It is possible to observe much just from the area around Finca Montaña especially birds.

Last year we had a resident Hoopoo.  In the summer months we daily see Eagles, Vultures and Bee Eaters.

Most days the local goat herd passes our land in the timeless fashion of farmer leading the flock.




If you would like to enquire about staying at Finca Montaña, we can be contacted through the Mountain House website.

The local goats walking past

Walking in the Warm! - Spain

Walking in the Warm!

Walking in the warm has become a dream as the British winter is now taking hold. A wet summer followed by a wet autumn, now a wet cold winter has left me dreaming of some warmth and the chance to walk in some sunshine.

Walking holidays don’t need to be expensive, especially if southern Spain is your destination.  There are cheap flights from all U.K. airports to Malaga which can be the gateway to a wonderful walking holiday in Andalucía’s Alpujarra region. The Alpujarra is the area nestling into the southern slopes of Spain’s Sierra Nevada Mountains. The area has been mainly influenced by the Berber Arabs who colonised this area from the 8^th Century and is characterised by pretty white villages linked by a network of paths, mule tracks and watercourses known as Acequia’s.

February warmth in The Alpujarra

Mountain House Holidays (operating from their mountain house high in the Alpujarra) have a vast local knowledge of the walking in the area and their walks are led by qualified International Mountain Leaders. There are walking holidays scheduled for February, April and May.

Walking in T shirts is not uncommon in winer!

The walking in the Alpujarra is classic hill walking so don’t expect flat easy paths, but is well within the capabilities of those used to walking at a basic level in British hills (South Downs, Peak District, etc.). 

A flavour of the area can be gleaned from Chris Stewarts superb book, “Driving over Lemons.”

Favourite walks included in the Itineraries usually include:

Walking beside an Acequia near Lanjaron

A circuit in the Poqueira Gorge, which takes in the delights of the prettiest three villages, Capileira, Bubion and Pampaneira. The walking here is a mixture of walking through ancient terraces as we ascend the valley before taking in the delights of the “whitewashed” villages with their narrow streets, public Lavado’s where old ladies can still be seen doing their washing and of course the odd bar!

A circuit in the Taha, a name given to the valley beneath Trevelez which is Spain’s highest village, famous for its dry cured ham. The walking here takes a line on an old mule track through improbable cliffs, past goat farms, ancient bridges, terraces and white washed villages.

A circuit above the spa town of Lanjaron. This walk follows ancient mule tracks through terraces, follows acequia’s and gives superb views down to the coast and on clear days across to the mountains of North Africa. 

Lanjaron is famous for it’s spa water and as a “resort” has many craft shops, and a range of bars and restaurants.

Alpujarran Street scene

Mountain House Holidays offer you a complete package, starting from when we meet you at Malaga Airport through until when we drop you back at the airport at the end of your holiday. You just arrange your flight and insurance, we organise your travel in Spain, your full board accommodation and a week of fully guided walking led by qualified walk leaders with a full local knowledge of the area.

For those who prefer “self guided” holidays, we are able to organise accommodation and provide written details of the walks we lead.

Walking in Spain's Alpujarra and Sierra Nevada

Walking in Spain’s Sierra Nevada and Alpujarra

For the past ten years since we bought our mountain ”cortio” in Spain’s Sierra NevadaMountains and Alpujarra, we have enjoyed exploring the hills and mountains just south of Granada.  Since 2004 we have been organising walking holidays here as Mountain House Holidays though we also operate a guiding service as Sierra Nevada Guides and are the only qualified British International Mountain Leaders operating in the Alpujarra and Sierra Nevada Mountains.

Mulhacen

The Sierra Nevada boasts mainland Spain’s highest mountain, Mulhacen at 3482m.  The southern slopes of the Sierra Nevada are known as the Alpujarra an area great for hill walking, especially in the winter months when the high mountains are covered in snow.

Walking is possible in the Alpujarra all year round though from mid June until the end of August it is too hot for most people. However when the sun is out even in mid winter we have been stripped down to T shirts. 

Alpujarra Street

This part of Spain was ruled for centuries by Muslim kings and was colonised by Berbers from the Atlas mountains of Morocco.  The architecture of the villages is identical to those of the Atlas mountains.  However the tradition here is to paint the houses white and the villages look stunning adorning the hillsides, prettiest of all being Pampaneira, Bubion and Capileira.

The Sierra Nevada has been described as like Cairngorm with altitude! Unless you enjoy winter mountaineering or snowshoeing, the high mountains of the Sierra Nevada are best avoided in the winter months and spring. The high mountains start to become accessible again from mid June and remain so most years into November.

Gentians and "The Star of The Snows"

The area is a national park and is famous for it’s wildlife. There are many endemic species in addition to those shared with other areas. This is because of the huge variation in altitude with climatic zones from Mediterranean to Alpine. Here it is almost certain that if you know where to go you will see eagles and vultures circling above you.

The walking can be varied too, encountering terraces of almond blossom, chestnut woodland and oak forests. There is even an extensive forest of Scots Pine!  In the high mountains as the snow retreats in summer the ground becomes carpeted with Gentians and a local version of the Edelweiss known as the Star of the Snows.

The pretty white villages all have water fountains to replenish drinking bottles and there are many wayside “fuente” too, some famous for their mineral waters and even fizzy.

Enjoying the December Sunshine

February, March, April and May are nice times to visit the Alpujarra as the land is green with new plant growth.  Easter in this area brings traditional processions of statues from the local churches through the narrow streets thronged with crowds.

Summer though hot in the valley, is a great time to walk the higher peaks of The Sierra Nevada. Sun is almost guaranteed in the summer and we have never had to wear a waterproof jacket though occasionally a windproof.  Up high the temperature will be between 15 and 20 degrees during the summer though can drop considerably in high winds.

"Cabra de Monte" Iberian Ibex

Autumn is a good time for both the Alpujarra and Sierra Nevada.  The tourists disappear, everywhere becomes quieter though the warm weather stays. The weather does become changeable but not to the extent that it rules out walking.

Footpaths are not well marked though the maps available are adequate and there are several guidebooks detailing the walking that can be bought in the U.K.

Our walking holidays take advantage of our local knowledge of the best walks ensuring that no day is wasted. For those organising their own holidays, there are a selection of our favourite walks available to download from our Sierra Nevada Guides website.

There is detailed information about the area on our website and we are always happy to advise and share our knowledge.